During a week spent amidst the snow-covered streets, warm people, and delightful flavors of Bosnia and Herzegovina, I explored the deep history and culture of Sarajevo and Mostar. This trip focused primarily on these two captivating cities. I'll share what I saw, the tastes I experienced, and my impressions of Bosnia's recent history.
About Bosnia and Herzegovina
Located in the heart of the Balkans, Bosnia and Herzegovina has a complex federal structure. The country is divided into two main entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Republika Srpska. Due to the conflicts and ethnic divisions in recent history, there are still noticeable differences.
Federal Structure Information
Bosnia and Herzegovina consists of two main federal entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (mostly Bosniaks and Croats) and Republika Srpska. The Brčko District is a third administrative unit with special status.
First Impressions of Sarajevo
Sarajevo is a unique city where Eastern and Western cultures blend. The western side features modern buildings and shopping centers, while the eastern side boasts historical structures from the Ottoman era.
Places to Visit in Sarajevo
Baščaršija (Old Bazaar) Area
The heart of Sarajevo, Baščaršija, dazzles with its narrow streets and historical buildings dating back to the Ottoman period. Here, you'll find centuries-old artisan shops, restaurants, and cafes. Be sure to explore the coppersmiths' street Kazandžiluk.
Sebilj Fountain
It is believed that those who drink water from the Sebilj fountain in Baščaršija square will return to Sarajevo. This wooden Ottoman fountain is one of the city's most famous symbols and is always surrounded by pigeons.
Copper Craftsmanship in Sarajevo
The copper workshops you'll see on every corner in Baščaršija keep one of Bosnia's oldest crafts alive. Handmade džezve (traditional coffee pots) and plates with Ottoman motifs are among the most popular souvenirs.
Latin Bridge and the Museum of Sarajevo 1878–1918
The Latin Bridge is a historically significant spot where the event that triggered World War I took place. In the adjacent museum, you can learn the details of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria-Hungary.
Historical Turning Point
The assassination that took place near this bridge on June 28, 1914, was the spark that ignited World War I. A plaque marks the exact spot where Gavrilo Princip stood.
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
Built in 1531, this Ottoman mosque is one of Sarajevo's most important Islamic structures. It forms a complex with the šadrvan (ablution fountain) in its courtyard, along with the surrounding medresa (school), library, and imaret (soup kitchen).
Grave of Alija Izetbegović
The grave of Alija Izetbegović, the leader of Bosnia and Herzegovina's independence movement and its first president, is an important site of remembrance in the city.
Scars of War: Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide
The Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide recounts the tragic events of the Bosnian War (1992-1995), illustrating the horrors of war and the hardships faced by the Bosniak people.
Eternal Flame Memorial
The Eternal Flame Vječna vatra in Sarajevo is a significant monument commemorating those who died during the liberation of Sarajevo in World War II, and often associated with victims of the later Bosnian War as well.
Mostar and its Historic Bridge
Famous for its iconic bridge over the Neretva River, Mostar is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina's most visited cities. The bridge, known as Stari Most (Old Bridge), is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Bridge Jumpers
During the summer months, local young men dive from the 24-meter (79-foot) high bridge into the Neretva River, often after collecting money from tourists. This is a centuries-old tradition, but performances are paused in winter due to the extremely cold water.
Mostar Old Town
Mostar's historic texture, with its narrow streets and stone houses in the old town area, makes visitors feel like they've stepped back in time.
Turkish Traces in Mostar
We were quite surprised to see the presence of the Kayseri Municipality (a city in Turkey) while wandering around Mostar. Many municipalities from Turkey contribute to the restoration of historical structures in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Bosnian Cuisine
Bosnian cuisine has been shaped by Ottoman, Mediterranean, and Central European influences. It is famous for its meat-heavy dishes and desserts.
Soups and Starters
Bosnian soups will warm you up on cold winter days:
- Ječmena čorba (Barley soup): A lightly spiced soup with beef, served in large portions in copper bowls, perfect for cold winter days.
- Begova čorba (Bey's soup): A chicken broth-based soup enriched with okra, carrots, and special spices, often topped with kajmak (similar to clotted cream) for a rich flavor.
Bosnian Pastries and Mantı
Pastries pita and dumplings mantije are favorites among tourists. One of the best experiences is trying pastries baked over wood fire, often with coals placed on top of the baking tray sač. We tried several pastry shops buregdžinica in the bazaar and found the quality consistently high.
Börek Tip
For the best börek experience in Bosnia, look for local bakeries pekara or buregdžinica that use wood-fired sač ovens. Authentic Bosnian pita is made with thinly rolled dough generously filled. Prices in 2024 were quite reasonable.
Main types of Bosnian pita:
- Burek: Rolled pastry filled with minced meat (only this type is technically called burek.
- Sirnica: Filled with cheese.
- Krompiruša: Filled with potatoes.
- Zeljanica: Filled with spinach and cheese.
- Tikvenica: Filled with pumpkin or zucchini.
Bosnian dumplings, mantije, are equally popular and a must-try:
Esnaf Lokantası (Tradesmen's Restaurants)
To taste local flavors in Sarajevo, esnaf lokantası (tradesmen's restaurants) are ideal. These eateries usually offer home-style cooking and traditional Bosnian dishes. With their affordable prices and authentic atmosphere, they are popular among both locals and tourists.
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İnat Kuća (House of Spite) Restaurant
İnat Kuća is one of Sarajevo's most famous restaurants, serving traditional Bosnian dishes with a modern presentation. The story behind its name is interesting – it comes from a Bosniak who refused to abandon his house when the Austro-Hungarian Empire occupied the city in 1878 and wanted to build the city hall on its location. The house was eventually moved, brick by brick, to the other side of the river.
Rich Bosnian Breakfast
Breakfast in Bosnia is quite rich and satisfying. Kajmak (a dairy product similar to clotted cream) is especially indispensable on the breakfast table. I recommend visiting local markets to taste different varieties of kajmak. You can find homemade kajmak at various stages of maturity.
Bosnian Coffee
Bosnian coffee bosanska kafa is very similar to Turkish coffee but has its own preparation and serving rituals. It's brewed in a copper pot called a džezva and served in traditional small cups fildžan. It's often accompanied by rahat lokum (Turkish delight). Drinking Bosnian coffee in historical places like Morića Han is not just about the beverage but a cultural experience.
Desserts and Traditional Drinks
Bosnia and Herzegovina's dessert world is as rich as its savory offerings. Hot drinks and syrupy desserts were our favorites, especially during winter:
- Trileçe: A milk cake similar to versions found elsewhere but often creamier here.
- Baklava: The classic Ottoman dessert with walnuts and syrup.
- Boza: A fermented drink made from millet or corn, with a slightly tangy taste.
- Salep: An essential winter drink, often made spicier in Bosnia.
Local Markets
Local markets in Sarajevo are great places to observe daily life and taste local products. Markale Market Pijaca Markale is particularly worth seeing for its historical significance and lively atmosphere. Here you can find seasonal fruits and vegetables, homemade cheeses, dried meat products suho meso, and local spices.
Transportation Information
Inner-City Transport
Sarajevo has two main bus stations: the central bus station (Autobuska Stanica Sarajevo) and the East Sarajevo bus station (Autobuska Stanica Istočno Sarajevo) in the Republika Srpska entity. Unless traveling to distant destinations like Belgrade, you'll likely use the central one. For inner-city transportation, trams, buses, and trolleybuses are available. Single tickets cost approximately 1.8 KM (around 1 Euro).
Tram Trivia
Some of the trams in Sarajevo were donated by Turkey in the 1980s, which is why you might still see Turkish writings inside them.
Turkey's Contributions to Bosnia
Turkey contributes to the restoration of many historical structures in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The restoration work by Turkey's Osmangazi Municipality in Baščaršija is one example.
Religious Structures
Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the rare countries where structures of different religions coexist closely. In Sarajevo, mosques, churches, and synagogues are often located within a short distance of each other.
Final Notes
Sarajevo and Mostar are definitely worth exploring for their historical charm, delicious food, and hospitable people. Visiting during winter can offer a more authentic experience with fewer tourists. If you're curious about Bosnian cuisine and want to enjoy tasty and affordable meals, these cities should definitely be on your travel list!
